I have always loved the silhouette of the Modern Belle from Lil Luxe Collection. Lately when looking at the pattern, I have thought this would be adorable to make a coat with this shape. So after cutting out the pattern and messing around with the pieces adding width, taking away length, and also adding some pieces, I was able to come up with this adorable pea coat. I made size 2 and 3 for my coats.
Patterns to Collect
- Modern Belle Dress
- Hideaway hoodie (just using the hood)
Preparing Coat pattern pieces
I took the front bodice piece and added 2″ onto the fold line so that the front pieces overlap. Make note on your “new” pattern piece to cut this mirrored.
Then your back piece take the 2″ off the pattern. I then covered up the keyhole cutout to make a straight line. Cut on Fold.
For the side panels remove the 2″ off the bottom of these, The sleeves stay the same.
(This is an option) I created an inside panel just to add some detail to the inside of the jacket. I made this 4″ wide by the length of the side of the new front piece, making sure the neckline is traced the same way. Mark on new piece to cut mirrored.
To cover the edge with the point of this inner panel , I made some bias tape that was cut 2″ wide.
For lining pieces you can just use the main pieces to create your lining or create new lining pieces in the steps to follow.
To make my front lining take my “new” front piece and the side panel, have the bottom of the side panel and front bodice line up with an overlap of 3/8″, then make sure to connect so there is an “a-line” line from the armsyce. Make note to cut these mirrored.
For back lining same thing as the front just using the back piece, and cut on fold.
Cut hood main and lining with the same material you are using for the coat main and lining
Construction
Start by following basic construction of Modern Belle pattern for the main part of the coat, attach front, back and sleeves and then side panel. The only seams that will be exposed and need finished are the arm hole seams.
Create your lining using new front and back pieces. Sleeves are not needed for lining.
attach the bias tape right sides together to the inner panels on the side of the panel that has a slight point.
Construct your hood, per hideaway hoodie pattern. (if using the hood.) Do not top stitch yet. (I pinned where the top stitching would go just to hold it together for me)
Layer in this order: main jacket with right sides together with inner panel, then jacket lining right side together on top of jacket main. You should be creating an inner panel sandwich.
This should be your view.
As in the picture above, sew along the jacket front edges. (follow red line) Leave open neckline and bottom
Now line up shoulder seam to make sure they are even and lining up. Now we’re going to slip the hood through the neckline.
(Hood layering: right sides together jacket main and hood, the inner panel, then lining) Pinning as you are layering.
Sew the hood in with a 3/8″ seam allowance. Removing pins as you go.
Now through the bottom of the coat you can now pull your hood through, to reveal an almost completed coat.
Give a good pressing to give great edges before top stiching.
To top stitch- top stitch 1/2″ away from edge from one side of jacket all around the hood then back down the other side.
Finish armsyce you could use bias tape but i Just finished it by using my serger. I lined up my shoulder seams and side seams and then serge
Hem bottom of coat main fabric to cover lining by turning in 1/4″ the by 1″ sew and press.
I put two rows of three buttons down my jacket. My buttons measured 1″
So from my collar I went down 1″ that’s my first button hole. Then from the bottom edge measured up 6″ that’s my last button hole. Then for the second button hole, measured then divided in between and that’s where it went.
Now for some more images of my finished coats.